A different way to do the islands.
French Polynesia had always looked like a place built around overwater bungalows and five-figure trips. I wanted the lagoons and the adventure, with my money going toward experiences.
I traveled through Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora, renting scooters on every island and choosing simple stays. My recorded cash spending came to $1,930.22, plus 60,000 Amex points transferred to Flying Blue for the long-haul flight. Those numbers are a record of my trip, rather than a current package price or a full valuation of the points.
The first calendar day was the overnight flight from Los Angeles on August 29. I arrived in Tahiti early on August 30.
My nine days, day by day.
The overnight flight from Los Angeles
I started at LAX and flew overnight to Papeete. I used 60,000 American Express points transferred to Flying Blue for the flight to Tahiti, taking a major cash expense out of the trip.
I landed around 5 a.m. to live Polynesian music at the airport. An early arrival gave me a full first day on Tahiti, although I needed to pace myself after the flight.
Tahiti by scooter: black sand and local food
I picked up a scooter from Pacifica Location and followed the coast. Pointe Vénus and its black sand were among the first stops, with viewpoints and food trucks filling the rest of the day.
Tahiti quickly stopped feeling like a layover. The scooter let me pull over whenever the landscape caught my eye, and that freedom became the rhythm of the whole trip.
Pacifica Location scooter rentals
Waterfalls and freshwater pools on Tahiti
I rode toward Cascade de Vaihi in Faaone, where the main fall and the pools above it made this one of my favorite stops. I continued to the Faarumai waterfalls and let the road between them be part of the experience.
It was the kind of day I had hoped French Polynesia would give me: a little exploration, a lot of green, and places I might have missed if I had gone straight to the next island.
A short flight to Moorea
I flew from Tahiti to Moorea, checked in at Little Mo'orea in Tiahura, and rented another scooter through Rodeeo from the Moorea Scooter/Moorea Bike agency near the ferry dock.
To'atea Panoramic Viewpoint was an immediate stop: lagoon below, Temae Beach to one side and Tahiti on the horizon. I went down to Temae afterward, then kept riding around the coast. Moorea felt like the place where the mountains and water worked together best.
Moorea Scooter / Moorea Bike
Swimming with humpback whales
I went out with Temoana Tours and encountered a humpback mother and calf. Getting into the open ocean while they were nearby was one of the most powerful wildlife moments I have ever experienced. The scale of a whale is hard to understand until you are in the water.
Wildlife encounters depend on conditions, and a swim is never guaranteed. If this is the reason you are visiting, plan around the permitted season, use an authorized operator, and follow the crew's instructions. I spent the rest of my Moorea time along the coast and snorkeling near Tiahura.
Temoana Tours whale outing
Moorea to Bora Bora, then Matira
I flew to Bora Bora and reached the main island by the airport shuttle boat across the lagoon. My stay was an Airbnb around Nūnu'e, near Matira, rather than an overwater resort.
Another scooter gave me the freedom to explore the main island and end up at Matira Beach. I stayed into the evening and rode again around sunset. Bora Bora was already beautiful from land, but the next day was when the lagoon took over.
Air Tahiti's Bora Bora airport shuttle details
A self-drive boat on Bora Bora's lagoon
I rented a self-drive boat from La Plage Bora Bora and explored the lagoon at my own pace, stopping to snorkel around coral, shallow sandbars, fish, blacktip reef sharks and rays. Mount Otemanu stayed in view while the water changed shade with every turn.
This was my favorite way to experience Bora Bora. La Plage offers different rental boats, so check the current navigation areas, weather and requirements for the boat you choose before heading out.
La Plage Bora Bora boat rentals
One last Bora Bora morning; back to Tahiti
I had more time on Bora Bora before flying back to Tahiti for the night. That final stop was deliberate: my international flight left early the next morning, and I wanted a buffer between the inter-island flight and the long-haul departure.
If I repeated this route, I would keep that final Tahiti night. It is a small planning choice that made the end of the trip much easier.
Flying home
Nine calendar days, three islands, three scooters and two very different ocean adventures later, I flew out of Papeete. The biggest surprise was how much of this trip happened far from an overwater bungalow: on roads, in waterfalls and out on the water.
See the islands through my lens.
I also documented French Polynesia in an eight-part video series. Watch the trip unfold on TikTok, then come back to this guide for the route, places I stayed, transport and the costs I recorded.
Watch the full seriesSimple stays, more room for experiences.
My lodging came to $460.62 total across the trip. I prioritized location and a place to sleep over resort amenities.
Ohana Beach Hostel
My base near Tahiti Iti, with a more casual hostel atmosphere. It made sense for my scooter days and kept costs down.
Little Mo'orea
A budget-friendly stay in Tiahura on the northwest side, close to the part of the island where I spent much of my time.
An Airbnb in Nūnu'e
I stayed on the main island near Matira. That let me explore by scooter while still spending time on the lagoon.
I also spent the final night back on Tahiti before my early flight. I do not have that property's name in these trip notes.
Three islands, three scooters.
Scooters and fuel cost me $315.02 in total. That gave me the flexibility to stop for beaches, food and viewpoints whenever I wanted. On Tahiti I rented from Pacifica Location; on Moorea I used Moorea Scooter / Moorea Bike through Rodeeo. I rented a third scooter on Bora Bora, but I am holding its operator name until I can confirm the booking record.
Tahiti is much larger than the other two islands, so a car may be more comfortable if long scooter rides or luggage are an issue. I used flights between islands; a ferry is another option between Tahiti and Moorea. The Air Tahiti shuttle boat from Bora Bora's airport motu to Vaitape was included in my Air Tahiti ticket.
What my trip actually cost.
These are the cash categories I recorded, plus the points I used for the flight from Los Angeles to Tahiti.
| Category | My recorded cost |
|---|---|
| Flight: LAX → Papeete | 60,000 Amex points transferred to Flying Blue |
| Accommodation | $460.62 |
| Inter-island flights | $335.49 |
| Scooters + fuel | $315.02 |
| Food | $218.94 |
| Activities | $600.15 |
| Tracked cash total | $1,930.22 |
The cash total adds only the five recorded dollar categories. It does not value the 60,000 points or include expenses I may not have tracked. It is not a flight-inclusive package total; rates and award availability change.
What I would absolutely keep.
- Moorea's whale experience. Temoana Tours took me out during whale season, and the mother-and-calf encounter was the emotional high point of the trip. A sighting or swim can never be promised.
- A full lagoon day in Bora Bora. The self-drive boat gave me time to snorkel and see Mount Otemanu from the water, at my own pace.
- Real time on Tahiti. Vaihi, Faarumai, the black-sand coast and the road between them changed my view of the island.
- The scooter days. Independent transport made every small, unplanned stop part of the story.
What I would change with more time.
I would keep all three islands, then add one or two days to Moorea. Two nights let me have the whale experience, Temae and the coastal ride, but I left feeling there was more mountain scenery, hiking and water time to explore.
I would also keep the final Tahiti night before an early international departure. It did not make for the most exciting photo, but it gave the trip a calmer ending.
What I wish I knew before going.
Tahiti deserves time.
It has waterfalls, freshwater pools and black-sand coastline. Consider a proper first stop rather than treating it solely as the international airport.
Check every connection.
Inter-island flights, ferries, scooters and stays determine how much usable time you have. I would book the key transfers before locking in nonrefundable accommodation.
Wildlife comes with rules and uncertainty.
Whale encounters are regulated and seasonal. Go with an authorized operator, follow local guidance and never plan on a guaranteed swim.
Choose the version that fits you.
This is an active route with frequent moves, simple stays and lots of time outdoors. It suits someone who values exploration and memorable experiences; a slower resort vacation would call for a different itinerary.
French Polynesia became much bigger than Bora Bora.
Tahiti gave me waterfalls and long scooter rides. Moorea gave me mountains and one of the most memorable wildlife encounters of my life. Bora Bora gave me the lagoon I had seen in photos for years—this time from a boat I was driving myself.
For me, the trip was a backpack, a scooter, a mask and snorkel, and the freedom to see what was around the next corner.
